For most pool owners, the landscaping surrounding it can be the finishing touch to the backyard oasis. Plants provide beauty and privacy around a swimming pool.

They also can be used to hide swimming pool equipment and help swimming pools to blend more naturally with the surrounding environment.

Your goal should be to create a landscape that frames your pool and makes it the focal point of your yard. Make sure to incorporate some taller plants that will be able to form privacy screens around the pool area. And don't forget to select plants that will be low maintenance and use less water. This will give you more time to enjoy your pool.

There are a number of considerations every pool owner should be aware of before selecting plants. Remember that your pool and the deck surrounding it reflect a tremendous amount of sun. Make sure to choose plants that can take it. Also, pick plants that either don't have much litter or that drop all their leaves at one time so you only have to clean up once a year. Constant leaf drop will require constant cleaning.

Use low water-use plants that will not require heavy irrigation around the pool. Too much water can damage pool equipment and potentially lift your concrete decking. Plan for year-round color and select plants with showy flowers that don't attract bees.

Try to avoid planting lawns near swimming pools. This will help keep grass clippings out of the water. If planting trees, select varieties with non-invasive root systems to avoid damage to deck or pool.

It's hard to avoid splashing around a pool, so any nearby plants will probably be exposed to the effects of pool chemicals. How your plants are affected will depend upon the type of chemicals you use. As a general rule, plants with thick leaves are more likely to be resistant to chemicals and pool salts.

A poolside landscape will enhance the beauty and elegance of your pool. By softening the edges of your pool, you can make it blend in more naturally with the rest of the garden. We have a great selection of plants that are perfect for poolside planting. Stop by and our staff of nursery professionals will be happy to help get you started.

• Be careful of the heat. Wear a hat and sunscreen; drink plenty of water. Try to do outside work in the morning or evening, when it is cooler.
• Be sure to trim trees and vines growing near swimming pools.
• Choose crape myrtles.
• Clean off the stems from agapanthus and daylilies that have already bloomed.
• Control fireblight by removing disfigured branches and twigs.
• Control pests and diseases that cause dead brown patches on cool-season lawns.
• Control pests on fuchsias.
• Control rose pests and diseases.
• Control white grubs on cool-season lawns.
• Cut back your petunias in mid-August to keep them flowering.
• Cut off the suckers from deciduous fruit trees.
• Do not fertilize deciduous fruit trees.
• Feed fuchsias, tuberous begonias, water lilies, cymbidiums, ferns and tropicals.
• Feed warm-season lawns. Feed cool-season lawns only if they show signs of yellowing.
• If you started biennials from seed in July, fertilize them with fish emulsion at weekly intervals.
• Fertilize roses.
• Give fuchsias a light pruning.
• Control weeds by mulching, cultivating, and hand-pulling.
• Pick out and purchase cassias and flame eucalyptus.
• Plant papayas, bananas, and palms.
• Plant tropicals in coastal zones.
• Prune and train wisteria.
• Prune and train your espaliers through the growing season.
• Pull out dead crabgrass if you have previously treated it with weed killer.
• Purchase and plant succulents, cacti, and euphorbias.
• Remove dead and dying foliage from date palms.
• Remove suckers from roses.
• Stop pinching chrysanthemums.
• Study your irrigation system; check for malfunctioning heads. On drip irrigation systems, flush filters and headers.
• Transplant palms.
• Water warm-season lawns deeply at least once a week in most zones. Water cool-season lawns more shallowly and frequently. Follow local water restrictions, of course.
• Water, water water! Be sure to keep container plants and garden beds watered well.

We spend thousands of dollars on our lawns, and hundreds of hours of work to make them beautiful, but sometimes there just is no protection against a common lawn fungus, and it can take months to bring our lawns back from an attack.  So be proactive; mow and water regularly, and learn to recognize the signs of a fungal attack so that applications of a fungicide can save your lawn and help your wallet.

Common fungus types are the following:

Fairy Ring: 
Bright green circular areas that appear to be growing more rapidly than the rest of your lawn are probably fairy rings, a fungus that often occurs after an extremely rainy period.  If the fairy ring consists only of mushrooms or puffballs, with no stimulated grass growth, simply rake off and dispose of these fungal fruiting structures. If handling the mushrooms, wash your hands when done. 

As serious injury to the turf does not occur often with fairy rings, the most practical method of dealing with them in lawns is through a cosmetic approach. Disguise the symptoms by providing adequate water deep into the root zone, and by applying moderate rates of fertilizers. This will increase the vigor of the surrounding grass to the level more like that of the grass in the fairy ring. Excessive application of water or fertilizer should be avoided as either may contribute to other turf diseases or stimulate fairy ring development. More frequent mowing may make the difference in height between the grass of the fairy ring and adjacent grass less conspicuous.

In rare cases where complete eradication of a fairy ring is necessary, the sod and underlying soil in a band 40 to 55 cm (app. 15-20 in) in front of and in back of the ring can be removed to a depth of 20 to 90 cm (app. 8-35 in.), depending on the extent of the development of the ring. The resulting hole should be replaced with clean, preferably sterilized, topsoil or soil mix. New sod or seed can then be established where the fairy ring was removed. Soil fumigants are sometimes effective for eliminating fairy rings, but this treatment must only be done by a licensed pest control applicator who is qualified to safely use toxic fumigants.

Dollar Spot:
That straw-colored spot the size of a silver dollar in your lawn is a fungus that thrives on dry, undernourished lawns.  Small, white, cobwebby spots in the morning that turn brown later in the day, is best treated by application of a sulfur fungicide to the affected areas every 3 to 5 days until the spots are gone.  After treatment, apply frequent, light applications of nitrogen to aid your lawn in its recovery, and regular mowing to cut off the tips of the infected grass, eventually eliminating the fungus.

Pythium Blight:
This particular fungus presents as a blackened, water-soaked appearance of patches of grass in your lawn.  During humid weather, you may also see a cottony growth also known as cottony blight or grease spot. Prevention is your best method of avoiding it; water your lawn in the early morning instead of the late evening.

Rhizoctonia blight:
Also called brown patch or summer patch, this is a fungus that kills circular patches of the grass up to 2 feet in diameter.  It flourishes in warm temperatures, especially with damp conditions caused by thatch, and St. Augustine grass is particularly vulnerable.  Apply a sulfur fungicide to the infected areas every 3 to 5 days until the symptoms improve.  To avoid reoccurrence, remove underlying thatch with a rake or a dethatcher, avoid applying heavy doses of nitrogen fertilizers, and improve drainage.

This is by no means a complete list of lawn fungals, but the common themes of over-watered lawns, dry lawns, and poorly maintained lawns can lead to unwanted fungus.  If you see what you think may be a problem, identify the condition, and treat accordingly.  Our garden center experts are here to help you grow and maintain a beautiful and healthy lawn. 

Can I save my plants that have shriveled up from the heat?

Answer:
That depends how long your plants have been suffering. Plants don't die from heat exposure, but rather from a lack of water to combat the drying effects of the heat.

(Think walking in the desert without water.)

Plants need moisture to keep the cells in their leaf tissues healthy. If there is no moisture for the plant to take up, the cells will burst and the foliage will start to shrivel and burn in the areas farthest from the root ball (source of water) and work its way towards the center of the plant.

When plants are first stressed, they will show you by wilting. When watered within a few hours of wilting, most plants will perk up and look just fine again. They may be saying a few choice words under their breath at you, but all will be forgiven. But if your plant is shriveled and burned, it means your plant was neglected and you could be facing five to ten for plant homicide.

If the plant is in the ground, water the root ball with your hose. Turn the water so that the hose is only slowly dripping. Water for 1-2 hours or until the root ball looks fully saturated.

In a container, try to soak the entire container in a bucket of water until it has fully absorbed enough water and the container is heavy again. Then continue back on a regular watering schedule. Do not fertilize your stressed plant to "help" it recover.

If the plant is still alive, it should show some new growth within 7-14 days. At that point, prune off any dead foliage above where the new growth is appearing. Once you have at least 3 inches of new growth, you may give it a light feeding.